Not much traffic of the vehicular variety here in Luang Prabang, but if you are out and about at 6am, the streets fill up with monks all collecting their daily alms in the form of food and rice from the townspeople. So the only rule we could think of for crossing the road here is to try and not run straight into a monk! The townsfolk prepare food the day before - we were a bit puzzled why we kept seeing 1000 tortillas and ten times that number of rice patties drying out in the sun, but now we know. Anyway, from what we could see, the monks definitely won't starve.
Luang Prabang is quite a smart place with lots of stylish French and international restaurants. But we prefer to find the cheap cafes and eat the local Lao food which on the whole is absolutely delicious.
There are so many Wats in this ancient town and each has loads of monks. Barely a minute goes by without seeing an orange robe floating by - it is all rather surreal and very photogenic.
Of course we are enjoying ourselves and despite the midnight curfew that applies to everyone in the country, we have staggered back later once or twice!
As always, lots more interesting shots on Flickr, especially interestign to fanatics of Wats and bridges!
Monday, 28 January 2008
Saturday, 26 January 2008
Northern Laos Leaves us SPEECHLESS
We are left speechless by the extraordinary beauty of Lao which makes it somewhat difficult to write the blog! So, I'll let most of the story unfold through the pictures I have uploaded to www.flickr.com/r1ch and instead, I'll focus on trying to complete the picture for you.We headed north from Vientiane to Vang Vieng which is about 5 hours by bus. Leaving the Mekong plains, it soon became apparent that Lao is actually a very mountainous country and that the landscape around Vientiane (basically flat) is the unusual one. The journey is only about 200km, which ought to be about 2 hours, but then you understand that the road is narrow and you head over several mountain passes. There were many times when the bus was only able to travel at 2mph.
We stayed in a great hotel with a lovely infinity swimming pool that you can see in the picture. The view from our balcony, and indeed from the pool itself is one to die for with amazingly vertiginous pinnacle'y (new word!) peaks rising directly from the rice paddies.
The river here is spanned by these strange looking footbridges which bounce ominously as you traverse them all the more aware that the bridges only operate in the dry season and I would guess they're dismantled as soon as the raining season starts. I say footbridges, because they're only just wide enough for a person to walk and passing other people is interesting as the bamboo handrails aren't exactly near and they're definitely not strong enough to support you if you were to lean on them! But the amazing thing is that the locals nip across on bicycles and motorbikes - suicide if you ask me, especially as the planks on which you walk aren't even complete!
We did a long walk over the river to engage more deeply with the scenery which also involved a spot of climbing and caving. As we had both brought our lovely expensive Petzl headtorches, the caving was planned to be great and we were feeling adventurous. Well when we got to the caves, despite a thorough search of the rucsack, there were no headtorches - BUM! So we had to rely on the local flickering nightmares! But, the caves were interesting and because they were quite a climb and scramble up the cliffs, the view was worth it too.
We walked in the heat for a few km and eventually found a very rickety cafe and stopped for a nice lunch and a cold drink. An amazing day indeed.
But just when we thought that Vang Vieng was the most amazing place in the universe, we had to leave as we had only booked 2 nights and our hotel in Luang Prabang was awaiting our arrival. We both blame the Lonely Planet guide that says that Vang Vieng is basically rubbish - how wrong were they - we're coming back!
On the plus side, the 7 hour bus journey to Luang Prabang was absolutely stunning. We went over several mountain passes all reminiscent of some of the largest alpine ones. I reckon the country here is more mountainous that Switzerland and the mountains themselves are even more beautiful. All throughout the journey, strange shaped mountains loomed over us - what a day yesterday was! We really are the luckiest guys to see all this before it gets too touristed.
Oh and one last piece of spice... the Lonely Planet guide also says that there have been many shootings along the route we were travelling along! Fortunately, the only shootings were from me pointing the camera out the window! Take a look at Flickr!
Sunday, 20 January 2008
Rules for crossing the street in Vientiane, Laos
Yes this is one of the 2 main streets in Vientiane which is the capital of LAO.
So far we haven't discovered any rules as there appear to be almost no cars, lorries, bicycles or motos here.
We've just launched ourselves from the pavement every time we've wanted to cross the street!
So far we haven't discovered any rules as there appear to be almost no cars, lorries, bicycles or motos here.
We've just launched ourselves from the pavement every time we've wanted to cross the street!
Sunset over the Mekong in Vientiane
Vientiane is the capital of the Lao PDR (People's Democratic Republic) and it is situated on the Mekong in the northern part of the country. This time of year (January) is very much the dry season, so the landscape is a bit like a desert and there is certainly plenty of red dust which makes for the most amazing sunsets.
This picture was taken from the riverfront where there are hundreds of cafes selling excellent fresh food and very cheap beer. In fact, everything in Lao is cheap. Last night we got fairly drunk on Beer Lao which is the excellent local brew (I actually prefer it to almost any other beer I've tasted!). We sat in a cafe the whole evening (not the one in the photo but in the town as we were worried about mosquitos) and we paid USD13 for all our food (starters/mains) and loads of giant bottles of Beer Lao - how cheap is that!
Vientiane is VERY quiet and we were staggering back to our hotel well before 10pm slightly sozzled as you might have guessed.
And of course, we were blissfully happy, especially as we're staying in the most expensive and exclusive hotel in the entire country - The Settha Palace Hotel. More about this hotel when I've had the chance to take a few pics.
This picture was taken from the riverfront where there are hundreds of cafes selling excellent fresh food and very cheap beer. In fact, everything in Lao is cheap. Last night we got fairly drunk on Beer Lao which is the excellent local brew (I actually prefer it to almost any other beer I've tasted!). We sat in a cafe the whole evening (not the one in the photo but in the town as we were worried about mosquitos) and we paid USD13 for all our food (starters/mains) and loads of giant bottles of Beer Lao - how cheap is that!
Vientiane is VERY quiet and we were staggering back to our hotel well before 10pm slightly sozzled as you might have guessed.
And of course, we were blissfully happy, especially as we're staying in the most expensive and exclusive hotel in the entire country - The Settha Palace Hotel. More about this hotel when I've had the chance to take a few pics.
Time to move on to the next "Ko"
Having finished the kayak tour of the islands surrounding Ko Lipe in the Tarutao National Park of Thailand, we explored the island itself. It really is very basic and it turns out that we are probably staying in the nicest set of bungalows in the Varin Resort. So nice in fact, that they even have "Sweets" to stay in!
We discovered over new year when we sent the text messages to all our friends that one of them, Robin (who we haven't seen for over 2 years!) was coming to Thailand in January for a kayak tour. And, would you believe it, he was actually coming to Ko Lipe on January 17th!!!! So we decided to stick around to see him and catch up. What a coincidence and it turned out to be a real pleasure to see Robin.
Anyway over 2 weeks is probably a bit long to spend on Ko Lipe - the island is only about 3 km wide and less than 1 km across. It really is very small. The water supply is a bit basic - its all pumped from the ground probably not far from where the septic tanks deposit the you know what. So, if you get sick, then you'll probably end up staying that way for quite a while. Of course we don't drink the water (everyone drinks bottled water throughout Thailand), but it is difficult to avoid using it for showering and brushing teeth and so on. Charlie got a tummy bug (normally this is what happens to me, but so far this holiday I have been blessed!), poor chap and while he was quite OK, it just refused to go.
So we had the choice after 2 weeks of where do we go next? Should we like our friend in Amsterdam, Jansje, suggested, move on to the "next ko", or should we do something completely different? What a challenge while you're sitting on a tropical beach to work that one out (I can think of harder problems to solve!).
We decided that the "next ko" would actually be Laos (or rather Lao as everyone seems to use over here). The thing that tipped the balance in favour of Lao was the availability of an easy direct boat back to Langkawi followed by a GBP30 flight (fare is for both of us) back to Kuala Lumpur with an onward flight the next morning to Vientiane at GBP80 (fare again is for both of us) all made possible via Air Asia. And with 2 further plusses, the main one being that we actually got to eat again in our favourite restaurant in Langkawi (Matahari) and a cheapie nice hotel at KL airport.
So that sealed the deal and off we went. After a hair raising ride in a speedboat which leapt from wave to wave and soaked the people on the port side (yes - cleverclogs here realised that the port side would get wet as this was where the wind was coming from, so we sat on the starboard side!), we made it to Langkawi. After a mad dash for me to get further passport photos for the Lao visa which was made so easy via the generosity of the Immigration Officer to use his driver and car to go to Kuah, we landed for dinner at Matahari. And yes it was wonderful and yes the staff all remembered us with smiles and welcoming hugs!
The evening was made more perfect by the fact that we flew on the Air Asia plane which was specially painted in Manchester United's livery and was 30 minutes early into KL and our bags came off first!
What a perfect day!
We discovered over new year when we sent the text messages to all our friends that one of them, Robin (who we haven't seen for over 2 years!) was coming to Thailand in January for a kayak tour. And, would you believe it, he was actually coming to Ko Lipe on January 17th!!!! So we decided to stick around to see him and catch up. What a coincidence and it turned out to be a real pleasure to see Robin.
Anyway over 2 weeks is probably a bit long to spend on Ko Lipe - the island is only about 3 km wide and less than 1 km across. It really is very small. The water supply is a bit basic - its all pumped from the ground probably not far from where the septic tanks deposit the you know what. So, if you get sick, then you'll probably end up staying that way for quite a while. Of course we don't drink the water (everyone drinks bottled water throughout Thailand), but it is difficult to avoid using it for showering and brushing teeth and so on. Charlie got a tummy bug (normally this is what happens to me, but so far this holiday I have been blessed!), poor chap and while he was quite OK, it just refused to go.
So we had the choice after 2 weeks of where do we go next? Should we like our friend in Amsterdam, Jansje, suggested, move on to the "next ko", or should we do something completely different? What a challenge while you're sitting on a tropical beach to work that one out (I can think of harder problems to solve!).
We decided that the "next ko" would actually be Laos (or rather Lao as everyone seems to use over here). The thing that tipped the balance in favour of Lao was the availability of an easy direct boat back to Langkawi followed by a GBP30 flight (fare is for both of us) back to Kuala Lumpur with an onward flight the next morning to Vientiane at GBP80 (fare again is for both of us) all made possible via Air Asia. And with 2 further plusses, the main one being that we actually got to eat again in our favourite restaurant in Langkawi (Matahari) and a cheapie nice hotel at KL airport.
So that sealed the deal and off we went. After a hair raising ride in a speedboat which leapt from wave to wave and soaked the people on the port side (yes - cleverclogs here realised that the port side would get wet as this was where the wind was coming from, so we sat on the starboard side!), we made it to Langkawi. After a mad dash for me to get further passport photos for the Lao visa which was made so easy via the generosity of the Immigration Officer to use his driver and car to go to Kuah, we landed for dinner at Matahari. And yes it was wonderful and yes the staff all remembered us with smiles and welcoming hugs!
The evening was made more perfect by the fact that we flew on the Air Asia plane which was specially painted in Manchester United's livery and was 30 minutes early into KL and our bags came off first!
What a perfect day!
Saturday, 12 January 2008
Balanced granite boulder
On our last day kayaking round the Tarutao National Park in Thailand we went all the way to the outermost islands and saw this granite boulder balanced as in the picture.
Again, it was a lovely day kayaking and snorkelling. We stayed around the outer islands which meant that the current was very strong for snorkelling and to be honest, thankfully we're good swimmers otherwise we'd have been swept away! Lots of stunning fish and coral as per usual. Photos on Flickr as you know by now.
Anyway, that was yesterday and today, Charlie and I had our first chance to explore the island on which we've been living for the last week - Ko Lipe. Its not very large and within 30 minutes you can cross from one side to the other. There are no roads (hence no cars) but there is a network of sandy paths that are mostly unsignposted. Hence its very easy to get lost.
We did walk to all the beaches and found the easiest way to navigate was listening out for the electricity generators that power each of the resorts (there being no electricity supply otherwise)! And the beaches are lovely. Unfortunately my camera batter ran out, so wasn't able to take pics of the best bits, but will save that for another day.
Starting to feel like its not long until we come home and that is a very scary prospect!
Love to you all, but especially to our dear friend Lara in Edinburgh.
Richard & Charlie x
Again, it was a lovely day kayaking and snorkelling. We stayed around the outer islands which meant that the current was very strong for snorkelling and to be honest, thankfully we're good swimmers otherwise we'd have been swept away! Lots of stunning fish and coral as per usual. Photos on Flickr as you know by now.
Anyway, that was yesterday and today, Charlie and I had our first chance to explore the island on which we've been living for the last week - Ko Lipe. Its not very large and within 30 minutes you can cross from one side to the other. There are no roads (hence no cars) but there is a network of sandy paths that are mostly unsignposted. Hence its very easy to get lost.
We did walk to all the beaches and found the easiest way to navigate was listening out for the electricity generators that power each of the resorts (there being no electricity supply otherwise)! And the beaches are lovely. Unfortunately my camera batter ran out, so wasn't able to take pics of the best bits, but will save that for another day.
Starting to feel like its not long until we come home and that is a very scary prospect!
Love to you all, but especially to our dear friend Lara in Edinburgh.
Richard & Charlie x
Tuesday, 8 January 2008
Not sea slugs, but Giant Clams!
These strange looking things are actually the live edges of giant clams and yes the colours really are as dramatic as they look.
You can see the clams open and close gently, but of course its impossible to catch on a photo. However, go to www.flickr.com/r1ch and you'll see other snorkelling photos.
When we're not snorkelling, we're kayaking and when we're not doing that, we're lounging around on our own private beaches with emerald clear water and white talcum powder sand...
Ahhhhhhhhhh!
You can see the clams open and close gently, but of course its impossible to catch on a photo. However, go to www.flickr.com/r1ch and you'll see other snorkelling photos.
When we're not snorkelling, we're kayaking and when we're not doing that, we're lounging around on our own private beaches with emerald clear water and white talcum powder sand...
Ahhhhhhhhhh!
Paradise on a deserted beach near Ko Lipe in Thailand
After a bit of a tortuous journey from Langkawi via a ferry to the Thai mainland, a hair raising 80 mph taxi ride up the Thai coast to Pak Bara an awful night in Pak Bara (which is a bit of a dump) and another ferry for 4 hours out to Ko Lipe, we have finally arrived in new age heaven, emerald seas and white sand beaches. Ahhhhhhh factor = 10/10.
But, why so many ferries, taxis and strange nights in Pak Bara when we can see Langkawi from here? Well, that is a very good question. We discovered that there is a direct ferry from Langkawi that only takes 1 hour... oh well next time. At least we were able to visit banks in Thailand to get some baht as there are no banks or ATMs out on these islands.
Its likely that we're spending a couple of weeks here it is so beautiful. Very new age and relaxed. And so are we. Apart from this week when we have booked a 6 day private kayak tour around the local islands. So far we have only been to Ko Adang which is where this lovely photo was taken.
The boat belongs to Kabu our boat driver, our guide shows us how to kayak and Kabu follows with the boat (or he goes on ahead to wait for us on a deserted beach a few km further on).
So we are kayaking and when we're not kayaking we are snorkelling and when we're not doing that, we simply lounging around on our own private beaches!
Did I say Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh?!
But, why so many ferries, taxis and strange nights in Pak Bara when we can see Langkawi from here? Well, that is a very good question. We discovered that there is a direct ferry from Langkawi that only takes 1 hour... oh well next time. At least we were able to visit banks in Thailand to get some baht as there are no banks or ATMs out on these islands.
Its likely that we're spending a couple of weeks here it is so beautiful. Very new age and relaxed. And so are we. Apart from this week when we have booked a 6 day private kayak tour around the local islands. So far we have only been to Ko Adang which is where this lovely photo was taken.
The boat belongs to Kabu our boat driver, our guide shows us how to kayak and Kabu follows with the boat (or he goes on ahead to wait for us on a deserted beach a few km further on).
So we are kayaking and when we're not kayaking we are snorkelling and when we're not doing that, we simply lounging around on our own private beaches!
Did I say Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh?!
Friday, 4 January 2008
Langkawi - Lovely but time to move on
It has been a lovely 16 nights in Langkawi and we have been lucky enough to stay in a really lovely resort, eat lots of delicious food and have Charlie's mum and sister join us for the time. But we are now getting itchy feet and our week's kayak trip in Tarutao National Park across the border in Thailand calls. So tomorrow we are taking the ferry from Langkawi to Satun in Thailand and lucky us, we gain an hour of time as well as Thailand is only 7 hours ahead of GMT whereas Malaysia is 8 hours ahead.We rented a car for a day and did our own tour of the island - to be honest there is not really that much to see, but we did go to the capital to see the giant sculpture of a sea eagle at the quayside. Lang means Eagle and Kawi means Rock, so Langkawi is Eagle Rock in Malay. And yes, we have seen many sea eagles, quite extraordinary. I know that after I took this picture of the giant sculpture, Charlie was still taking pictures with his digital slr (rather better than my snappy thing but less portable), a sea eagle came and hovered right in front of Charlie and the sculpture and yes, he really did get a great picture. We'll upload it when we get the stick done.
Funny story on New Year's Eve... muggins here (Nay surely not I hear you all say!) was tasked with ordering the wine in advance for the gala dinner which I did. A lovely bottle of Yellow Tail ozzie Shiraz was the request, so I faithfully complied. When we got to the table, there was a big ice bucket and we know its hot here, but we thought that was a bit steep chilling the shiraz down that much. So, just before complaining, it appears that the hotel did get the wine right, it was a bottle of Chardonnay... and it was written on the ticket, both the hotel's and mine, so god only knows what planet I was on. It was nice wine anyway, but as the house wine and beer were on "free flow", it didn't really matter. We all drank far far too much, staggered to the beach to catch the fireworks (I think I just about noticed them in between drinks) and then crashed into bed before 2am.
Needless to say that we were all very quiet on New Year's Day! Lets all hope that 2008 will be a super year for us and for you. Take care, Richard and Charlie
PS - thank you Jennie and Pat for being such super companions for the last couple of weeks, we're going to miss you!
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