If you want to see stunning landscapes, sunsets and more of Santa's Grotto (how could you refuse?!), you'll need to go to Flickr! But far more important is the quality of the food we've been eating. This is the "Malaysian Platter" that was put before me last night and it was absolutely delicious.
Satay features fairly heavily in Malaysian cuisine as does seafood on Langkawi. Really delicious. The restaurant was very Zen and like most of the traditional but upmarket Malay restaurants in the area, the buildings resembled teak houses and were constructed from teak. There are lily ponds everywhere and you typically have to cross at least one bridge to get to your table.
All very Zen and we were very happy. And before you ask, in my glass that you can see at the top left of the photo is water rather than neat gin! Although... I did have a "Langkawi Tropical" cocktail which I forgot to take a photo of.
All of us are well (brown rather than burned) and we hope you are well too. Merry Christmas again x
Saturday, 29 December 2007
Wednesday, 26 December 2007
A Seasonal Message
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL OUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS!!!
Hello to all of you and a Very Merry Christmas from Langkawi in Malaysia! Charlie and I are spending Christmas and New Year at the Pelangi Beach Resort in Langkawi and we have been joined by his sister Jennie and his mother Pat. Its a lovely hotel with 2 enormous pools and plenty of beachfront. The rooms are beautiful and panelled with teak and each is in a little block of about 4 or 6 set in gardens. There's a huge balcony and a separate dressing room, so the feeling is one of space and comfort. Jennie bless her has brough Christmas out in her bags, so there's a little Christmas tree (!) and we have decorations too.
Everywhere there are gardens with flowers and of course the hotel has been decorated for Christmas too and most of the serving staff proudly wear their Santa outfits including hats. There are quite a few Christmas trees and I don't think one is ever more than 50m from one - they're all decorated beautifully too. Being a luxury resort, there was a gala dinner for Christmas Eve and we all had to dress up for the occasion. Charlie and I both wore our new light jackets (linen one for me and a cotton coloured blazer for Charlie) that we had made in Vietnam. We also got to wear our black shoes that we have been lugging around on the holiday so far (somehow we just knew that we'd never be able to buy black shoes in our size in this part of the world!).
After the dinner which was lovely there was carol singing in the lobby and then most of us made our way down to the beach for the "Countdown Party". None of us really knew what this was about, but it was included in the price of the gala ticket so we went anyway. There was a huge stage somewhat similar to our friends Belinda and Kim's wedding in Singapore (Kim, do you remember the 2m high letters saying Happy Wedding to Belinda and Julian?!) where the band played and then, the spotlight was aimed out to sea and highlighted a boat. And no you really could not make this up, Santa arrived by boat with presents for the children (who really should have been in bed by this time of the evening!).
We danced the night away on the sand feeling absolutely boiling. One problem was that when the band played the Twist, while dancing, you simply dug your way into the sand so far that you had to keep climbing out!
We've got another 10 days at this hotel - no complaints save for the fact that the lovely staff wish you a Merry Christmas every time you catch their eye which gets a bit wearing after a while. Well, just call me Scrooge!
Off on a private tour of Langkawi tomorrow so there will be more photos and stories I am sure. We are roasting hot here and its quite humid as well, but no, I have to say that we are not missing the cold winter at all!
Merry Christmas to all our friends and we wish you were here with us!
Tuesday, 18 December 2007
Temples and Markets and Palaces
Today we were bold enough to take a taxi out into the suburbs to see a couple of "Chinese Pagodas". We didn't really know exactly what such pagoda are (I thought maybe something like the one in Kew Gardens in London), so we were slightly surprised to find that they were actually temples.Not really knowing much about Chinese temple etiquette, we tried our best to blend into the background and take photos rather discreetly. Nobody seemed to mind and the templegoers simply got on with the job of setting fire to hundreds of josticks and planting them at various points. There's quite a few more pictures on Flickr - we're honestly not sure how to describe what we saw, so maybe the pictures do it best themselves.
Having seen 2 temples (what an ace piece of navigation down streets an alleys!), we caught sight of a very local market an went for a look. There were no other tourists and everyone was as nice as pie to us - just smiles. We stopped for a spot of Pho which is Vietnamese noodle soup for lunch. You sit on tiny weeny chairs (think of Primary school) right in the main passageway with the odd moped brushing past your back (you're never more than 3 metres from a moped in this city anyway). We had to be shown everything to do by the locals - they were so helpful and smiled and laughed at our mistakes. A very pleasurable experience. As we walked out of the market, everyone chattered and laughed at us! Oh, the bill came to GBP 1.60 for a Pepsi, Sprite and 2 enormous bowls of Noodle Soup (with us adding herbs and spices ourselves). Cheap or what!
And then a very strange experience indeed. Back in the centre of Saigon, or should I say on this occasion, Ho Chi Minh City, we went to the Palace of Reunification. This was built by the government of South Vietnam as the Government HQ while the Americans were here in the 60s.After the withdrawal enshrined in the "Peace with Honor" settlement, General Ho Chi Minh's tanks nipped into Saigon and drove right up to this palace. South Vietnam fell and the country was unified under Ho Chi Minh with the government in Hanoi. So the palace was left "as is".
Its very 1960s and the whole place has the feel of Tracy Island about it, Tracy Island being the home of the Thunderbirds. Can't say that we bonded with the place, it was all very peculiar.
And to round off a busy day in Saigon, we collapsed, hot and humid into an open air cafe for a smoothie and some ice cream. Here's a couple of pictures that show what the locals are doing to set up for Christmas... and last but not least, at our cafe, there was Santa in the Snow with Fan.... presumably Santa's just too hot here!
Monday, 17 December 2007
Continues to Terrify but we're more used to the traffic now!
The traffic continues to terrify the living daylights out of us, but we just have to be bold and step out right into it. It more or less never stops and everything flies in from all directions and heads off in every direction. If you look at the middle of this photo, you can see 2 motos cutting directly through the traffic. Whereas in Phnom Penh, everything happened slowly... here its at the speed of light.
To get a real feel, here's a video I took while standing at a local crossroads - note that its a bit deceptive as there appears to be no traffic at the beginning - this is a fluke I swear!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwc47yzkWMI
And while we're on the subject of traffic, Charlie reminded me of a couple of additional rules that apply to all SE Asia countries:
1. Anyone can drive on the pavement whenever they wish (don't be afraid, the pedestrians will leap out of your way).
2. Pavements are to be used for anything other than walking on. How about setting up a tent or a market. Don't worry, the pedestrians will be quite happy to walk in the middle of the adjacent road.
Vietnam really is very cheap. We get 32,000 Vietnamese Dong to the GBP. Charlie's just bought 2 x designer titanium framed glasses from an optician (including a free eye test) and the whole deal came to 1,500,000 Dong = GBP48. Unbelievable indeed.
The suits we're buying at the tailor are priced in US Dollars but we chose luxury English and Italian designer cloth (imported). Each comes to USD98 = GBP49 and that includes the tailoring and fitting. I'm having a linen jacket as well and that's only GBP20 all in!
So we're quite happy and just chilling. If you check out the photos on Flickr, you'll see out tailors and also some great kids we met on one of our walks. This city comes to life if you smile and joke with the locals!
To get a real feel, here's a video I took while standing at a local crossroads - note that its a bit deceptive as there appears to be no traffic at the beginning - this is a fluke I swear!!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwc47yzkWMI
And while we're on the subject of traffic, Charlie reminded me of a couple of additional rules that apply to all SE Asia countries:
1. Anyone can drive on the pavement whenever they wish (don't be afraid, the pedestrians will leap out of your way).
2. Pavements are to be used for anything other than walking on. How about setting up a tent or a market. Don't worry, the pedestrians will be quite happy to walk in the middle of the adjacent road.
Vietnam really is very cheap. We get 32,000 Vietnamese Dong to the GBP. Charlie's just bought 2 x designer titanium framed glasses from an optician (including a free eye test) and the whole deal came to 1,500,000 Dong = GBP48. Unbelievable indeed.
The suits we're buying at the tailor are priced in US Dollars but we chose luxury English and Italian designer cloth (imported). Each comes to USD98 = GBP49 and that includes the tailoring and fitting. I'm having a linen jacket as well and that's only GBP20 all in!
So we're quite happy and just chilling. If you check out the photos on Flickr, you'll see out tailors and also some great kids we met on one of our walks. This city comes to life if you smile and joke with the locals!
Saturday, 15 December 2007
Traffic Rules in Vietnam
DO NOT FOLLOW THE RULES AS FOR CAMBODIA!!!!!!!!
Before we get to the rules that apply to crossing roads in Saigon, it helps to understand the type of traffic, its volume and where it comes from in Saigon.
There are MILLIONS of motorbikes and mopeds. They fly at considerable speed from all directions in what can only be described as an ever present moto-tsunami. There are a smaller number of cars and buses, but again, they appear from all directions.
There are pedestrian crossings, but these serve no purpose other than making the streets look slightly prettier.
How to cross the road in Saigon:
1. Stand on the side of the road and look both ways at the same time.
2. Do not blink.
3. When you think there is a very slight gap for 1 metre in front of you, start crossing (the gap is merely an illusion but it makes you feel better to think that its really there).
4. Walk and observe traffic from all directions without blinking.
5. If you see something coming towards you, STOP immediately.
6. The traffic will pass you.
7. Repeat from step 1 until you get to the other side.
8. When you get to the other side, calm down and find a beer.
Before we get to the rules that apply to crossing roads in Saigon, it helps to understand the type of traffic, its volume and where it comes from in Saigon.
There are MILLIONS of motorbikes and mopeds. They fly at considerable speed from all directions in what can only be described as an ever present moto-tsunami. There are a smaller number of cars and buses, but again, they appear from all directions.
There are pedestrian crossings, but these serve no purpose other than making the streets look slightly prettier.
How to cross the road in Saigon:
1. Stand on the side of the road and look both ways at the same time.
2. Do not blink.
3. When you think there is a very slight gap for 1 metre in front of you, start crossing (the gap is merely an illusion but it makes you feel better to think that its really there).
4. Walk and observe traffic from all directions without blinking.
5. If you see something coming towards you, STOP immediately.
6. The traffic will pass you.
7. Repeat from step 1 until you get to the other side.
8. When you get to the other side, calm down and find a beer.
Traffic Rules in Cambodia
OK - now that we have safely left Cambodia, its time to reflect on some of the simple rules that apply to getting around in that country. The rules vary depending on whether you are a pedestrian, or driving a vehicle. If you are driving, then the rules change according to the size of the vehicle being driven.
Pedestrians
1. There are no pedestrian crossings. No matter how busy the road (some are like the M6), you must step directly into the traffic and walk slowly and purposefully across any road, even one with 10 lanes.
2. Continue without hesitation to the other side of the road. If you hesitate, and you are lucky, you will be killed. If you are unlucky, you will end up in a local hospital where you will die slowly.
3. Vehicles will avoid you by millimetres, but remember, they are judging your purposeful speed and so on. Warning - do not try and avoid vehicles - they will avoid you.
Rules Applying to All Vehicles
1. When executing a turn crossing the flow of traffic, first turn into the oncoming traffic, but keeping close to the curb (you are now heading the wrong way for the flow of traffic on your side of the road but do not be alarmed).
2. When you see a slight gap in part of the oncoming traffic (this could be after several hundred metres on a busy road), gently move your car towards the middle of the road. At this point, continue driving forward as vehicles come towards you and pass on both sides.
3. Eventually you will see a gap and be able to join the proper side of the road. Note that the traffic travelling on the proper side of the road will sort of give way to you in respect of your bravery.
4. There are no rules unless you are a foreigner. If you are a foreigner and you are in an accident, it does not matter whose fault the accident was - the Khmer logic runs "if you were not there, the accident would not have happened". Accidents should therefore be avoided.
Vehicle Drivers (large buses, trucks, SUVs)
1. Do whatever you like but try and stay on the road otherwise you will get stuck.
2. No highway code rules apply (traffic lights, direction of flow, pavements).
3. Do not give way to any other vehicle as a matter of life and death.
Vehicle Drivers (all other vehicles)
1. Give way to bigger vehicles, but maybe you can zip underneath a truck?
2. Drive anywhere you like.
In Conclusion
Fortunately the roads are so awful that the traffic mostly cannot exceed 30kph, so there are very few accidents or deaths as everything happens so slowly. It took us over an hour to cross the bridge in the picture. We got stuck several times on the road to Vietnam.
God only knows what will happen when they build the first motorway...
Thursday, 13 December 2007
The Pavilion Hotel,,, Ahh factor....
If you really want to see hot and dusty streets, or even the Royal Palace, then you'll need to pop over to flickr
http://www.flickr.com/r1ch
But we are both SO delighted with this boutique hotel slap bang in the middle of Phnom Penh that we had to show it to you. AND its only 50 bucks a night!
Our room is the top right overlooking the swimming pool. We take breakfast on the left.
Zen. Paradise.
But at 06:15am tomorrow morning, we swap all this for the bus to Vietnam (or should I say 'Nam Principal Skinner!). I think there's a ferry across the Mekong, so it should be an interesting trip. We're heading for Ho Chi Minh City and its 32,000 Dong to the GBP - so there!
At least we got the visas in time. So next time you hear from us will be in HCMC as its known locally.
Oh and if you look very closely, you might see a very handsome Charlie in the doorway to the hotel!
http://www.flickr.com/r1ch
But we are both SO delighted with this boutique hotel slap bang in the middle of Phnom Penh that we had to show it to you. AND its only 50 bucks a night!
Our room is the top right overlooking the swimming pool. We take breakfast on the left.
Zen. Paradise.
But at 06:15am tomorrow morning, we swap all this for the bus to Vietnam (or should I say 'Nam Principal Skinner!). I think there's a ferry across the Mekong, so it should be an interesting trip. We're heading for Ho Chi Minh City and its 32,000 Dong to the GBP - so there!
At least we got the visas in time. So next time you hear from us will be in HCMC as its known locally.
Oh and if you look very closely, you might see a very handsome Charlie in the doorway to the hotel!
Bet your were expecting hot dusty streets!
But, NO, we were in a very stylish bar last night called Salt Bar. Yes we drank too much (first time in ages), but our wallets were only $16 lighter at the end of the evening, so not much impact financially.
Halfway through the evening, a photographer from the local magazine Asia Life turned up to photoshoot the bar. We were in quite a few shots, so you never know, we might be famous next month!
Halfway through the evening, a photographer from the local magazine Asia Life turned up to photoshoot the bar. We were in quite a few shots, so you never know, we might be famous next month!
Wednesday, 12 December 2007
On the Boat from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh
Well this was an interesting journey. We booked to go by boat from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh - a journey of something approaching 200 miles. After a ridiculously crowded journey in a pick up truck to get to the "boat terminal" (this term needs to be used cautiously, it was a natural and muddy peninsula with a broken plank connecting land to boat), we headed away at some considerable speed.
The journey took about 5 and 1/2 hours and the first part was across the this lake "Tonle Sap Lake". We had NO idea how big the lake was. For about a 1 and 1/2 hours, we saw no land at all and the boat was zooming incredibly fast.
It set of at 7am'ish, when the sun wasn't too hot, so we opted for the roof. It was a fascinating journey, first across the lake and then down the Tonle Sap River.
This river is quite amazing. During the monsoon (June to October), the flow is up from Phnom Penh to the Lake, providing a very effective flood management system (Environment Agency readers please take note!). Then in the dry season, the river reverses its flow and the lake empties towards Phnom Penh, where it is used to provide irrigation.
As the boat zoomed down the river, far too fast for my liking (and not a life jacket or raft in sight), it scattered fisherpeople all over the place! But, the Cambodians are long suffering and this is probably the least of their problems, so when we waved, they always smiled and waved back.
Docking in Phnom Penh, we were besieged by "porters" who want to carry your bag a few metres for a tip. But, we were tipped off in advance and simply grabbed the bags and popped to a lovely restaurant next door for lunch until the commotion died down.
We then checked into our hotel...
http://www.pavilion-cambodia.com
Which is an oasis in the middle of the city. More to follow in the next blog!
The journey took about 5 and 1/2 hours and the first part was across the this lake "Tonle Sap Lake". We had NO idea how big the lake was. For about a 1 and 1/2 hours, we saw no land at all and the boat was zooming incredibly fast.
It set of at 7am'ish, when the sun wasn't too hot, so we opted for the roof. It was a fascinating journey, first across the lake and then down the Tonle Sap River.
This river is quite amazing. During the monsoon (June to October), the flow is up from Phnom Penh to the Lake, providing a very effective flood management system (Environment Agency readers please take note!). Then in the dry season, the river reverses its flow and the lake empties towards Phnom Penh, where it is used to provide irrigation.
As the boat zoomed down the river, far too fast for my liking (and not a life jacket or raft in sight), it scattered fisherpeople all over the place! But, the Cambodians are long suffering and this is probably the least of their problems, so when we waved, they always smiled and waved back.
Docking in Phnom Penh, we were besieged by "porters" who want to carry your bag a few metres for a tip. But, we were tipped off in advance and simply grabbed the bags and popped to a lovely restaurant next door for lunch until the commotion died down.
We then checked into our hotel...
http://www.pavilion-cambodia.com
Which is an oasis in the middle of the city. More to follow in the next blog!
Monday, 10 December 2007
On the way to the Loo!
They're not allowed anywhere near the ancient monuments and this day, we didn't have a clue. So we stopped at a little cafe and said we'd buy a drink on one condition - "tell us where the toilet is". So they did and it was over a kilometre away - but "sir, no problem - we take you on moto!". Here's Charlie on his way to the loo!
Anyway, that's about it for temple bagging. We've had a lovely time here in Siem Reap and will be returning as soon as time and funds allow. Tomorrow, we're being picked up from the hotel at 6am and are taking the 7am ferry to Phnom Penh ($25 per person for the 5 hour trip).
So next time we post, we'll be in the capital of Cambodia.
Sunday, 9 December 2007
Cambodia's Past and Present
And yet, despite this truly horrendous history that continues to blight people's live, this is the land of smiles. Everywhere you go, the people are absolutely charming. Always ready to wave, greet, smile and ask how you are. They expect nothing in return and are just delighted that you have come all this way to visit their country. I shall miss Cambodia enormously when we leave.
Dinner with traditional dancing show
Our driver arranged a bargain for us last night - a buffet dinner with a traditional dancing show. Total cost was $12 - quite remarkable when you consider that we stuffed ourselves sick with about 5 courses (including fruit for desert, so at least some of it was healthy!).
Seriously tho, the dancing and music were lovely. Not quite as polished as the Thai equivalent, but beautiful nevertheless.
Seriously tho, the dancing and music were lovely. Not quite as polished as the Thai equivalent, but beautiful nevertheless.
Friday, 7 December 2007
Wasn't Lara Croft Here?
There are so many temples that even I am having difficulty remembering all their names. This one is called Ta Prohm.
We found ourselves climbing up and over lots of tree roots - felt like real explorers!
Of course, it was the afternoon which is when the humidity goes off the scale, so we just melted completely.
We found ourselves climbing up and over lots of tree roots - felt like real explorers!
Of course, it was the afternoon which is when the humidity goes off the scale, so we just melted completely.
Angkor at Last
At last we have made it to Angkor and have spent the last 2 days visiting the temples. The whole "site" is enormous and probably covers 100 square miles. Within this, there are dozens of temples. The place is breathtaking in its magnitude, architecture and style. Here is just a teeny tiny bit of Angkor Wat just down the side of one of the side bits near the back of the temple. It takes 45 minutes just to walk across the moat and to get to here through all the monuments.
Here's a quick pic of The Bayon, this being the
We see about 4 temples a day, 2 in the morning and 2 in the evening. By about 4pm, we're hot, sticky and exhausted - and this is the dry winter season. God knows what its like in the raining season when its even hotter!
So, please check out the photos which can be found at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/r1ch
And I'll pop a few more blog entries directly from flickr that might give you a flavour of how we're getting on.
Thursday, 6 December 2007
We arrived safely and are well on our way!
The good news is that we made it all the way here in tip top condition! The bad news is that even tho we've got loads of fab photos to share, they're sitting safely in the camera which won't talk to the usb port on this pc! All is not lost, we have a usb card reader that functions like a disk drive, so we'll give that a go instead. Just means that it'll be tomorrow before we're back on-line again.
As for where "here" is, we are currently in Siem Reap in Cambodia having flown up here from Kuala Lumpur yesterday morning. And yes, today we did visit the temples at Angkor and were totally blown away by the scale of each temple (think of each temple being the size of an international airport). Astonishingly their are LOADS of temples and the whole site covers dozens of square miles... so we bought the week long pass and are heading back first thing tomorrow.
So given we can't share any pics tonight... here's a quick question. What can you do for GBP 225?
This is the cost of a Standard Open Return on the Virgin train from Manchester to London! But we hear you say, "who cares?" - well we only paid just over GBP 450 return from Manchester to the far east!!!!!
STOP PRESS - Charlie has just managed to connect his PC (next to mine) to my camera, so I am going to swap over now and you will soon be entertained or bored with a few pictures...
Cheers - Rich & Charlie
As for where "here" is, we are currently in Siem Reap in Cambodia having flown up here from Kuala Lumpur yesterday morning. And yes, today we did visit the temples at Angkor and were totally blown away by the scale of each temple (think of each temple being the size of an international airport). Astonishingly their are LOADS of temples and the whole site covers dozens of square miles... so we bought the week long pass and are heading back first thing tomorrow.
So given we can't share any pics tonight...
This is the cost of a Standard Open Return on the Virgin train from Manchester to London! But we hear you say, "who cares?" - well we only paid just over GBP 450 return from Manchester to the far east!!!!!
STOP PRESS - Charlie has just managed to connect his PC (next to mine) to my camera, so I am going to swap over now and you will soon be entertained or bored with a few pictures...
Cheers - Rich & Charlie
Saturday, 1 December 2007
Eek its tomorrow, but before we go...Luxor
Firstly, thanks to everyone at work. It is always a rush to finishing everything that should have been done and yes, some tasks have fallen by the wayside for which I apologise.Before I get to where we're going in the next 2 months, here is a quick report of our recent holiday to Luxor in Egypt. We went there for a quick week of sun, tombs and relaxation in October 2007. We stayed in the New Winter Palace which shares the same facilities as the Old Winter Palace.
The best part of the hotel was that it has over 1km sq of gardens with an enormous swimming pool! So when you've just about had all the heat, dust and mummies you can stand, head for the beautiful pool.Luxor is really a very interesting place and is described as the largest open air museum in the world. For a better flavour of what it is really like, have a look at my photo site which can be found at:
www.flickr.com/photos/r1ch
In fact, this is where all the pictures for our asia holiday are going to be stored. Just in case you've forgotten, the asia holiday starts tomorrow, so who's a happy bunny today then!!!!
And just to prove that we did not spend all day by the pool


Sunday, 25 November 2007
Less than a week to go before we leave
Hi and welcome to my journal of our trip to southeast Asia!

Our itinerary is roughly as follows:
Kuala Lumpur -> Cambodia (Siem Reap for Angkor Wat) -> Phonm Penh -> Vietnam (Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City) -> Malaysia (Langkawi for Christmas and New Year) -> Thailand
and we come home on about 3rd February. Just click on the Google Earth image and you'll see that I have added a few pin points showing where we have booked.
So just now we are in the middle of sorting out the house and, oh, I have to finish everything with work and we have to meet our local friends for dinner. So its all feeling a bit rushed.
And there's less than a week to go!!!!!!!
So its back to work for me now, but I'll add more posts... by the way, we fly out on 2nd December via Dubai to Kuala Lumpur.

Our itinerary is roughly as follows:
Kuala Lumpur -> Cambodia (Siem Reap for Angkor Wat) -> Phonm Penh -> Vietnam (Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City) -> Malaysia (Langkawi for Christmas and New Year) -> Thailand
and we come home on about 3rd February. Just click on the Google Earth image and you'll see that I have added a few pin points showing where we have booked.
So just now we are in the middle of sorting out the house and, oh, I have to finish everything with work and we have to meet our local friends for dinner. So its all feeling a bit rushed.
And there's less than a week to go!!!!!!!
So its back to work for me now, but I'll add more posts... by the way, we fly out on 2nd December via Dubai to Kuala Lumpur.
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