OK - now that we have safely left Cambodia, its time to reflect on some of the simple rules that apply to getting around in that country. The rules vary depending on whether you are a pedestrian, or driving a vehicle. If you are driving, then the rules change according to the size of the vehicle being driven.
Pedestrians
1. There are no pedestrian crossings. No matter how busy the road (some are like the M6), you must step directly into the traffic and walk slowly and purposefully across any road, even one with 10 lanes.
2. Continue without hesitation to the other side of the road. If you hesitate, and you are lucky, you will be killed. If you are unlucky, you will end up in a local hospital where you will die slowly.
3. Vehicles will avoid you by millimetres, but remember, they are judging your purposeful speed and so on. Warning - do not try and avoid vehicles - they will avoid you.
Rules Applying to All Vehicles
1. When executing a turn crossing the flow of traffic, first turn into the oncoming traffic, but keeping close to the curb (you are now heading the wrong way for the flow of traffic on your side of the road but do not be alarmed).
2. When you see a slight gap in part of the oncoming traffic (this could be after several hundred metres on a busy road), gently move your car towards the middle of the road. At this point, continue driving forward as vehicles come towards you and pass on both sides.
3. Eventually you will see a gap and be able to join the proper side of the road. Note that the traffic travelling on the proper side of the road will sort of give way to you in respect of your bravery.
4. There are no rules unless you are a foreigner. If you are a foreigner and you are in an accident, it does not matter whose fault the accident was - the Khmer logic runs "if you were not there, the accident would not have happened". Accidents should therefore be avoided.
Vehicle Drivers (large buses, trucks, SUVs)
1. Do whatever you like but try and stay on the road otherwise you will get stuck.
2. No highway code rules apply (traffic lights, direction of flow, pavements).
3. Do not give way to any other vehicle as a matter of life and death.
Vehicle Drivers (all other vehicles)
1. Give way to bigger vehicles, but maybe you can zip underneath a truck?
2. Drive anywhere you like.
In Conclusion
Fortunately the roads are so awful that the traffic mostly cannot exceed 30kph, so there are very few accidents or deaths as everything happens so slowly. It took us over an hour to cross the bridge in the picture. We got stuck several times on the road to Vietnam.
God only knows what will happen when they build the first motorway...
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